{"id":21295,"date":"2019-10-08T13:18:29","date_gmt":"2019-10-08T12:18:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sommertage.com\/?p=21295"},"modified":"2026-04-10T16:07:37","modified_gmt":"2026-04-10T14:07:37","slug":"lozere-tarn-jonte-gorges","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sommertage.com\/en\/lozere-tarn-jonte-gorges\/","title":{"rendered":"Loz\u00e8re: The Tarn and Jonte Gorges of the C\u00e9vennes National Park"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Who thinks of curvy coastal roads, the sounds of the sea and the wind crooked palm trees on a road trip through the South of France? What does all this have to do with Loz\u00e8re? Pretty much nothing! Except for the curvy winding roads\u2026 of which there are plenty of in Loz\u00e8re. The Loz\u00e8re is wild, barren and untouched<\/strong>. It is the opposite of what you would imagine when you think South of France. It remains in our memories as the most spectacular stop<\/strong> of our journey.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In this blog article we will share with you what it is exactly about the Loz\u00e8re and its gorges – Gorges du Tarn & Gorges de la Jonte – that had us so enraptured. Of course, as always, we have a few secret tips for you. Are you ready?<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

1. Loz\u00e8re and the C\u00e9vennes National Park: What to expect<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Crazy thing: Of all the 96 D\u00e9partements in mainland France, the Loz\u00e8re is the least populated one – this is a fact we can confirm as we have rarely travelled through a region as sparsely populated<\/strong> as the Loz\u00e8re! Often you drive for miles through desolate stretches of land. That’s probably why we liked Loz\u00e8re so much.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Loz\u00e8re is an undeniably spectacular<\/strong> region in the south of France<\/a>. The two rivers of the Tarn and the Jonte, have dug deep ravines<\/strong> here in the C\u00e9vennes and divided them into limestone plateaux<\/strong>: the so-called “Causses”. In other words, the landscape of the Loz\u00e8re combines breathtaking gorges and endlessly wide barren plateaus. Believe us: this is such a natural spectacle that even several days after the canyon landscapes of the Loz\u00e8re, we still could not get enough of it. Not to mention the charming, petite mountain villages where time just seems to stands still.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Our experience: Who is Loz\u00e8re suitable for? <\/span><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

If you are considering a trip to the Loz\u00e8re, you have to be a nature lover – that’s for sure. The C\u00e9vennes National Park is well known for its extensive hiking network<\/strong>: several multi-day hikes run through the C\u00e9vennes National Park or through the Loz\u00e8re. So if you ever wanted to conquer a long-distance hike, then Loz\u00e8re is the place to go. This region is also very well known for its climbing<\/strong>, with some of the most popular climbing routes in France found along the Tarn Gorge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But don\u2019t worry: the Loz\u00e8re is also very easy and very pleasant to explore by rental car, this is what we did. Short hikes are possible in many places. <\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Sainte<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

2. Gorges du Tarn: Villages Along the Tarn Gorge and Things to Do<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

What follows is a small song of praise to the canyon landscapes<\/strong> of the Loz\u00e8re: they are so breathtaking that we still lack the words to do this place justice. The start point showcases the spectacular Gorges du Tarn (or the Tarn Gorge), with their mountain villages built on and into the cliff face.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you drive through the Tarn Gorge valley by car, sometimes it can be a little restrictive. In some places the road is so narrow that we desperately prayed and hoped not to encounter any oncoming traffic. On our left would be the rock wall – and on the right would be the abyss.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can drive along the entire road from Le Rozier<\/strong> (start point of the Tarn Gorge) to the famous Castelbouc<\/strong> down on the banks of the Tarn. It is definitely worthwhile, to drive up one of these routes at least once, as the Tarn Gorge is most impressive if you admire it from above.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Point Sublime<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

One of our first encounters here in Loz\u00e8re was the view from Point Sublime. They couldn\u2019t have given this a more suitable name. Sublime means \u201coverwhelming\u201d<\/strong>, and that is exactly the word that best describes this view point.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

From Point Sublime you will find one of the most spectacular sections<\/strong> of the Gorges du Tarn at your feet. The viewpoint is one of the most famous and popular of the entire gorge. The fact that we ended up having a super long photo stop here says it all, no? Our conclusion: definitely worth a stop by!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can drive with the rental car right up to the lookout point and park there in the free car park<\/strong>. There is also a small caf\u00e9 where you can buy something to drink. We also did not take our photos from the official observation deck, but found a quieter spot just a few minutes away.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Point<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Point<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Aussichtspunkt<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

La Mal\u00e8ne<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

La Mal\u00e8ne is a story-book village<\/strong> in the Tarn Gorge. The eye-catcher of La Mal\u00e8ne is the castle called “Manoir de Montesquoi” and just for this sight alone, is it already worth a stopover. A little tip: in order to capture the entirety of the mountain village and its beauty, you have to see it from afar. If you drive up the hairpin road-bends on the other side of the gorge, you will have a great panoramic view over La Mal\u00e8ne.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

One more tip: La Mal\u00e8ne is also a popular starting point to explore the Tarn Gorge from the water. Unfortunately, we did not do that because of time constraints, but a ride on the “Bateliers des Gorges du Tarn<\/a>” is said to be quite impressive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"La<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"La<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Sainte-Enimie<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Sainte-Enimie is the most popular place<\/strong> in the Tarn Gorge. Coming from the west we were presented a magical view of the mountain village and its photogenic bridge upon our arrival. Not surprising that Sainte-Enimie is also considered one of the most beautiful villages in France<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the centre you will find a comparatively large number of visitors, but don\u2019t worry: Sainte-Enimie still retains the charm of a secluded mountain village. We strongly advise you to park your car and take a walk through the picturesque medieval village<\/strong> centre to the church of Notre-Dame-du-Gourg.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Sainte<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Sainte<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Sainte<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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\"Sainte<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Sainte<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Castelbouc<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

No village in the Tarn Gorge is as exceptional as Castelbouc. At first glance, one could easily overlook the houses, which press themselves into the rock face<\/strong> itself and look as if they\u2019ve moulded into the surrounding landscape. If you come from Sainte-Enimie, you have a great view of Castelbouc just a few hundred metres from the entrance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You should park your car no further than at the entrance to the village. There are very few spots, but we got lucky. From the car park you can either take a short walk<\/strong> through Castlebouc or do a 2 hour hike<\/a> that also passes by the castle ruins.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Castelbouc\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Castelbouc<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

3. Gorges de la Jonte: Villages Along the Jonte Gorge and Things to Do<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

A little further south and a little less well-known, but not by any means less worthy of seeing: is the Jonte Gorge – known as \u201cGorges de la Jonte\u201d in French. She may not be quite as spectacular as her big sister, the Tarn Gorge, but definitely worth a stopover.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Meyrueis<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

A good start point for exploring the Gorges de la Jonte is Meyrueis. We did not end up seeing as many people in the rest of the Jonte Gorge, as we did in Meyrueis. There are also several cafes, restaurants and hotels<\/strong>. We had a quick “Noisette” (which is the same as an espresso macchiato) in one of the cafes. If you have more time, you can also visit the Grotto of Dargilan<\/strong>, which is about a 15-minute drive from Meyrueis.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Meyrueis\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Stopover on the way<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

From Meyrueis you can easily follow the road towards Le Rozier. On the way, there are always worthwhile stopovers, including the lookout point “Belvedere Vautours\u201d<\/strong> for example. It is very close to the Maison des Vautours. FYI: The French “Vautours” translates to “vulture”. In the Maison du Vautours, you can learn more about the vultures that you see in the Jonte Gorge, which fly frequently above you in the sky. However, we were only at the nearby view point, which is a few hundred meters further towards Le Rozier.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another tip, which was not exactly on the way, but deserves to be mentioned, is the grotto Aven Armand<\/strong>. This stop was not far from our accommodation (more on that later) and apparently is very highly recommended. Unfortunately, we did not have enough time to visit the cave.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Gorges<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Jonteschlucht\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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\"Jonte<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Gorges<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Belvedere<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Le Rozier<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Do not miss the enchanting village of Rozier, where the Tarn and Jonte Gorges meet. Our tip: Le Rozier is simply beautiful to look at from a distance! So park your car just on the side of the road at the entrance towards the centre of the village and enjoy the view. Definitely postcard worthy shot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And then we also have a second tip that really comes from the heart: In the restaurant “L’Alicanta”<\/strong>, which belongs to the H\u00f4tel Doussi\u00e8re, you not only have a fabulous view, but you can dine very well here. Great recommendation!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Le<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Le<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Le<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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\"Alicanta<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Restaurant<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

4. Hyelzas: Visit to Fromagerie Le F\u00e9dou in Sheep-land<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

From the gorges to the \u201cCausses\u201d<\/strong>, the barren limestone plateaus are also worth a visit in Loz\u00e8re. It took us to the tiny village of Hyelzas in the M\u00e9jan Causeway. And when we say tiny, we mean tiny: Hyelzas has about 50 inhabitants, but ten times as many sheep!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In this idyllic place, you feel like you are miles away from any civilisation. Not only did we stay the night here, but we also paid a visit to the sheep farmer Ana\u00efs<\/strong>. She has created something pretty amazing here: “Des brebis et des hommes”, in English: “By sheep and men”. It gives visitors an authentic and honest insight into sheep farming and cheese production.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Imagine 100% passion<\/strong>! Voil\u00e0: This is an afternoon with Ana\u00efs. If anyone from animal-friendly sheep farming understands anything, then it\u2019s them. “I love my sheep,” was the phrase we heard most from her that day. She cuddled, petted and played with the sheep. Their sheep are exclusively used for milk production and are not slaughtered.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After the visit of the sheep, of course, the cheese tasting<\/strong> followed. In the Fromagerie Le F\u00e9dou, where the milk from Anais’ sheep is turned into cheese. As cheese fans, we declare that rarely have we tasted such good cheese.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Finally, Ana\u00efs took us to a former farm in Hyelzas<\/strong>. If you are in any way historically interested, then we can highly recommend a visit. With the aid of a brochure (which was also available in German) you go on your own from room to room and learn an incredible amount about agriculture in earlier times. Conclusion: Surprisingly exciting!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Important information about Fromagerie Le F\u00e9dou<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Price:<\/em> from 6 euros
Further information and contact information: <\/em>Fromagerie Le F\u00e9dou<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Anais<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Dogs<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Schafzucht<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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\"Lozere<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Hyelzas<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Des<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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\"Lozere<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Hyelzas<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

5. Our Accommodation in Hyelzas: Stay Overnight in the Stone House<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

In keeping with the charm of the wild Loz\u00e8re, we stayed for two nights in an old stone house. “Le g\u00eete de La Doline” is the name of the magical place where you feel like you are in the middle of nowhere, a place where we could just switch off and be in the present. Ok, middle of nowhere is an understatement, Hyelzas has at least 50 inhabitants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The “Le g\u00eete de la Doline” is just as one would imagine accommodation in a 50-inhabitant village and this is exactly what gives it its charm. In the evening, all guests gather to toast the day with an aperitif and then have dinner together<\/strong> – the hostess personally prepares dinner with wine in the decanter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The “Le g\u00eete de La Doline” only hosts a few rooms<\/strong>. The guests are predominantly hikers because the property is located along a well-known hiking route through the C\u00e9vennes National Park. Incidentally, on both days we were not the only ones traveling by car, but also the only non-French guests. The communication was a bit difficult with our broken French, but we still had such wonderful encounters that we didn\u2019t want to miss out!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another small tip for better orientation: The accommodation is sometimes also called “G\u00eete Four \u00e0 pain” (for example, on various signs).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here is the link to their website<\/strong>, unfortunately it is only in French: Le g\u00eete de La Doline<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Le<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Lozere<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Lozere<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

6. En Route to Florac: Magnificent Views<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Expect the unexpected. On our last morning, the Loz\u00e8re had a little farewell gift in store for us. We were just on the way to the famous Pont du Gard when we were rewarded with this view just before Florac. Words fail you in moments like these, no?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We have marked the Mini View Point, which is right on the road (D 16), on the map so you can find it too. Unfortunately, due to time constraints, we only got a glimpse of Florac as we drove by. But at least we have a reason to come back!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Florac\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Florac<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n